12 days through vibrant Senegal

Tasked as a photographer, this destination allowed me to push my practice further. Being constantly focused on documenting allowed me to capture things in a new way. Seeing, hearing, analyzing, feeling. Being in this state of attention made me notice many small things we sometimes forget in the flow of daily life.

Senegal is vast and intense. In twelve days, I took a beautiful tour of the northern and central-western parts of the country. A dense itinerary that allowed me to capture the diversity of landscapes, atmospheres, and people.

First stop, after a comfortable 5.5-hour flight with Brussels Airlines: Dakar.

This mythical African city, the westernmost on the continent, has always intrigued me. A quick but intense stop. Between organized chaos, ambient noise, light piercing through narrow alleys, striking social contrasts, bustling markets, spicy smells — you see everything here. And it’s unforgettable. Dakar cannot be explained, it must be experienced, it imposes itself.

As a surfing enthusiast, I had to visit the island of Ngor, just seconds — almost a minute — from the beach by local pirogue. This small island is radiant, full of colors, car-free, peaceful, and pleasant to walk around. There are small restaurants, bars, and quiet spots to relax. By chance, the conditions were perfect to surf Ngor Right. I easily found a wetsuit and a board on site. Here in Senegal, mutual help and hospitality are not just slogans; they are realities. It makes everything easier, more human.

Second island, second atmosphere. A recommended stop, and to me, almost a must: the magnificent island of Gorée.

A postcard-perfect setting, but a heavy, striking history. Millions of Africans passed through here, captured, deported, and sold as goods. It’s striking to dive into this dark period and remember that many countries built their power and wealth on the lives, labor, and suffering of black people. 

Today, the island is touristy, but it remains beautiful. The colors, colonial architecture, flowers climbing up the walls, children running through the alleys... Many visit just for the day, but if I could advise one thing: spend the night there. 
When the last boats depart for Dakar, the island changes pace. It becomes silent, calm, almost unreal. The evening light caresses the ochre façades, the alleys empty, and the wind settles in. That’s when you truly feel Gorée.

By carriage through beautiful Saint-Louis

It’s time to hit the road, heading north to the legendary colonial city of Saint-Louis, the former capital. Along the way, several stops are planned. The Pink Lake, which may seem touristy, but once again, a nice surprise. We learn and see beautiful things there. A few kilometers away, the village of Kayar. On the beach, the departure and return of fishermen, who go out all night, sometimes over 60 km, to fish using their arms. Thousands of people, hundreds of boats, noise, a strong smell, women selling fish. On this beach, a true chaos, but an incredible experience. Especially as a photographer, but it’s essential to talk to them, exchange, and ask their permission before capturing certain scenes. We continue our journey north with our driver, Cheick, who, over the days, becomes not just our driver but our friend and guide. We decided to share our lunches and dinners with him, to exchange, talk, and learn more about him and life in Senegal. After all, we’re spending 10 days together, so we might as well get along. Up north, we stop at a magnificent lodge, have a picnic by the Langue de Barbarie and its natural reserve, where we’ll see all kinds of birds, including pelicans and pink flamingos.

Arriving in Saint-Louis, the city is stunning, with its colonial style and surprising calm. It’s a photographer’s paradise, with its old buildings, colorful streets, and the unique light that reigns there. We start with a city tour by carriage. It’s not exactly my style for exploring, but in the end, it’s a very practical way to see a lot in a short time and discover great anecdotes from our guide. Then, we lose ourselves in our favorite part of the city, exploring at our own pace. That night, we stayed at SIKI Hotel, a really beautiful place, well-located and pleasant, perfect for fully enjoying the experience.

Sailing in a pirogue and picnicking on deserted beaches

We continue our journey south towards Palmarin, through the country. Along the way, we took a break at Koba Ecolodge, a truly authentic spot, nestled in the middle of nowhere. We stayed in small, simple, and comfortable huts, which allowed us to fully immerse ourselves in the natural surroundings. We were also lucky enough to visit a local village, where the atmosphere quickly transformed into an impromptu dance party — a fun and lively experience that gave us a real insight into the local culture.

In Senegal, the spaces are vast, you can’t be afraid of long drives. After a few hours on the road, we arrived in the Palmarin region and the Sin Saloum delta. We stayed at the Palmarin Lodge, a peaceful haven nestled in this beautiful region. As the sun started to set, we went for a carriage ride to explore the salt culture and observe hyenas in the Palmarin Nature Reserve. It was a captivating experience, blending nature, wildlife, and local traditions.

The next day begins, for me, the 24 hours I had been eagerly anticipating, and today, with hindsight, remain my favorite experience. 24 hours on a pirogue, getting lost in the Sin Saloum delta, visiting the mangroves, the islands, and learning more about the history and traditions of this place. We had everything we needed on the boat, a picnic worthy of a movie on a deserted beach, a timeless moment, and once again, a photographer’s dream. We boarded our pirogue again for a few hours, found a deserted island, no one around, just us, our guide, his children working with him, and our friend Cheick, who joined the adventure. We set up camp for the night. Once again, hospitality and generosity were the key words. This camp was exceptional, and the evening around the fire, with a delicious dinner, will remain an unforgettable memory. The night wasn’t the most comfortable, between the wind and the crabs wanting to enter the tent, but being alone in such a place is the best hotel, in my opinion.

A visit to the Shell Island

The next morning, after breakfast, we packed up camp and headed back to land. Again, some road ahead of us. We drove back up the coast and arrived in the afternoon at the Somone Lagoon. On the way, we stopped to visit Fadiouth Island, also known as the “Shell Island.” This peaceful and unique island is entirely made of shells and is known for its deep sense of cultural harmony. What makes it particularly interesting is that it is predominantly Catholic (90%), while the rest of Senegal is 95% Muslim. We took our time strolling on its wooden walkways, visiting its interreligious cemetery, and soaking in the serenity of this special place.

Finishing in La Somone, a place to completely unwind

We continued our journey and arrived in La Somone, specifically at "Les Manguiers" Hotel in Guéréo. This hotel is magnificent, and ending the trip with a more upscale and relaxing touch was perfect. We had a small house with a private pool, the dream! The hotel is close to the lagoon and has its own private access. Depending on the tide, we can take a boat to the bay. Arriving at Les Manguiers also meant saying goodbye to Cheick, who was no longer just our driver but our true friend here in Senegal. Hugs all around, we promised to stay in touch, to see each other again, and to send him friends so he could be their guide or driver, because he’s the best!

Speaking of the bay, we visited it twice during our last two days, more specifically at Malik's (at the Panoramic View Restaurant) to relax in a hammock, have cold drinks, and enjoy fresh lobster, gambas, and an unforgettable welcome. Malik is the kindest, most attentive human being on this planet. I already knew him, but he became a friend with whom I’m often in touch. Don’t hesitate to visit him; you won’t be disappointed. 
We ended our stay between the hotel and Malik’s, and soon it was time to take a taxi to the airport. A 5.5-hour direct flight with Brussels Airlines, and we were quickly home, already nostalgic of this wonderful adventure. 

Thank you, Brussels Airlines!